INSTALLING A NEW ALTERNATOR

Turn off the battery supply, using the isolating switch under the saddle. If there isn’t one then disconnect the battery.
Remove the headlight and air filter. Remove the four bolts from the petrol tank. Lift the tank so that the pipe, linking the two halves, is out of the way, prop it in this position with a bit of wood or something.

Make a note of the two wires connected to the old alternator. Remove them and undo the two nuts holding the alternator to the engine. The alternator should now be pulled from the engine and removed.
Note: be careful of the gasket between the alternator and the engine.

If the new alternator does not have the gear attached, then the old one will have to be reused, along with the woddruf key. Don’t forget to use a new split pin. The new alternator can now be slid into position, careful of the gasket! and the securing nuts tightened up. Note: Just before the two nuts are fully tight, lift the alternator a fraction of an inch, this will stop the gears inside meshing too tightly. This may sound daft but I read about it in the American Ural website.

Find the two wires that were removed from the old alternator. Identify the wire that went to the field connector, crimp a “female” spade

terminal to it, and connect it to the spade terminal, on the new alternator, marked D+ . If you have difficulty finding this terminal it may help to pull off the plastic cover first, thread the wire through the hole marked D+ , connect it to the spade, then replace the cover. This will work if the wire is long enough, if it isn’t then you could extend it with another crimp connector.
Identify the +ve battery lead, and connect it to the 10mm nut, marked +. This is easy to find as it pokes through the plastic cover.

From the voltage regulator remove all three wires. Join the yellow wire that goes to the field ( D ) with the green one that goes to the indicator lamp ( E ), This connects the alternator field input to the red ignition lamp. The third wire is no longer used. Insulate any bare wires and fix them so they do not flap about and cause a short. Note the unused wire goes to the battery’s positive terminal !!, so you may want to remove it completely.

With the headlight removed the ignition indicator lamp can be pulled from its housing. Take off the earth connection, brown wire, insulate and secure it. With approx. 6 inches of red wire, crimp a “female” spade terminal on one end and a “piggy back” spade on the other. Plug the single spade on to the free terminal of the bulb holder and replace the holder into the indicator housing.
On the ignition switch, find the “switched” 12volts terminal, it has a red wire. Carefully pull off this spade connector from the ignition switch, reconnect it with the new piggy back connector. Insulate any visible connections.

Put everything back in place.

Reconnect the battery, isolator switch to the ON position.

Now when you turn the ignition key to ON, the red “ignition” lamp should light up, current is flowing into the alternator field winding. When the engine is started the alternator will, hopefully, generate electrical supply to the battery and also an internal feed to its field winding. This will have the effect of stopping the current flow through the indicator lamp, turning it off. If you have a volt meter, the battery terminal voltage should be approximately 14 volts.

It is also worth noting that, with this new arrangement, the red lamp will not flash with the turn indicators. Also, if the ignition bulb should be broken, there will be no initial field current to the alternator when the engine is not running. This could be fixed by putting a resistor across the ignition bulb contacts, about 100 Ohms.

Good luck.

Alan Grimmett 18th Jan 1999