Dressmaking & Tailoring

tailor with jacketclip-art scissors and patternbuttons on a sleeveperson fitting a dress on a form

Click here for current Cover to Cover Dressmaking & Tailoring titles on ABE
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As the saddle makes the horse, so the tailor makes the man.
- Chinese proverb.

Selected Titles:
The Cut of Women's Clothes

The Cut of Women's Clothes

Norah Waugh
Faber & Faber reprint 1969


Each period in the history of costume has produced its own characteristic line and silhouette, derived from a cut and construction which varies considerably from age to age, especially in women's clothes. Analysis of fashion from this viewpoint necessitates the examination of actual costumes, a procedure which is not always possible. However, in this book are patterns taken from actual dresses, many of them rare museum specimens. They have been selected to show the typical cut of each period and its gradual evolution to an entirely new line. The diagrams are illustrated by sketches of the dress when made. Notes on the production of women's dress with references to early technical books and journals are provided, together with diagrams from some of them. Quotations from contemporary sources give life and colour to the practical text, and numerous illustrations show the dresses as worn complete with their hairstyles, jewellery, decorations and accessories.

`You could hardly go to a better place to discover how the changing shape of woman is achieved ... this is a serious and beautifully illustrated book for someone interested in period dressmaking beyond the common run: the pictures and patterns are clear enough to cut and sew from.' Katherine Whitehorn in the Observer

`It provides a remarkably informative survey of women's fashions between the end . of Queen Elizabeth's reign and the beginning of the 1930's. For each period, Miss Waugh shows not only the general effect at which the designer aimed, but how it was then realized with the help of the scissors and the needle. Her pages of patterns should be of immense assistance to a modern stage costumier. . . . Historians and students of art and literature will also find the book useful ... this is an expert study of a highly specialized subject; but no one who is interested in the social background of the past can fail to find it entertaining.' History Today


Large 4to. Orange cloth-covered boards. Very minor bumps to the boards, ex libris plate + 2 names to the front free endpaper, wear + chips to the dustwrapper plus closed tear to the rear, otherwise in VG++ condition in a VG++ wrapper. 1665 gms £42.00

Complete Pattern Designing
Ann Ladbury
Sidgwick & Jackson 1st 1989


Have you ever dreamed up the perfect evening dress — the colour, style and fabric — and been unable to find anything remotely similar in the shops? Do you long for a unique outfit without the designer price tag? In Complete Pattern Designing, Ann Ladbury, the country's best-known dressmaking expert, describes step by step how you can transform your own ideas for all types of clothes into ready-to-wear garments.
Separate sections cover patterns for trousers, skirts, blouses and bodices, coats and jackets, lingerie, nightwear and beachwear, with advice on how the various style features combine to make complete outfits. Clear illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions show how to construct and fit the basic body blocks for a pattern and then add different design elements to your chosen shape. The advice on fitting applies to all patterns and garments and could be used in conjunction with a shop-bought pattern to achieve perfect results for all types of figures. And the whole book is interspersed with the bright commonsense sewing tips for which Ann Ladbury is so famous.
A special feature of Complete Pattern Designing are the attractive, full-page colour photographs suggesting some of the finished garments that can be made — but let your imagination run wild! With just a little time and effort, the wardrobe of your dreams could now become a reality.

4to. Very, very minor bumps to the boards, slight creasing to the edges of the dustwapper, especially at the head and tail of spine, otherwise the book is in VG++ condition in a VG++ wrapper. 1135 gms £14.50

Complete Pattern Designing

Modelling and Flat Cutting for Fashion - from Design to Pattern

Modelling and Flat Cutting for Fashion - from Design to Pattern

Helen Stanley
Hutchinson third corrected impression 1977

Helen Stanley lectures in fashion and clothing at The London College of Fashion. Before this appointment, she taught fashion subjects for many years at Hornsey College of Art, Ealing School of Art and, earlier on, at Shoreditch College for the Garment Trades.
She has had wide experience in the fashion industry—as a designer, as a pattern cutter and as head fitter and dressmaker in couture houses. She has also formed and run a company of her own and has undertaken freelance commissions of great variety, including children's wear, and historic and theatrical costumes.
Mrs. Stanley has devoted the last fourteen years to teaching, which she finds most enjoyable and rewarding. She continues to remain informed of new developments directly —either by contact with firms in the fashion industry or through The Clothing Institute of which she is an enthusiastic member.
Helen Stanley has produced here in book form a basic course in modelling and flat pattern cutting. She has presented a variety and range of methods—all of which she and her students have used successfully and with excellent results—and has emphasised a practical, three-dimensional approach to the subject of pattern designing throughout the work.
For easy reference, the programme of work is arranged in the form of self-contained lessons with text and diagrams closely associated on individual pages—this will be invaluable to teachers. A special feature are the diagrams—more than 750—which seek to explain visually, better than words can ever do, the progress of the practical work.
Metric measurements, with imperial values in brackets, are used throughout the book. The comprehensive index will be found most useful. The book is particularly intended for those students in art classes and technical colleges who are training to become dress designers or pattern cutters; for those who are preparing for the Dip. A.D. in Fashion or for a variety of City and Guilds examinations in Dress.


4to paperback 180 pages in VG++ condition. 405 gms £22.00

Clothes without Patterns
Fay Morgan
Mills & Boon reprint 1980

CLOTHES WITHOUT PATTERNS
is a book that will pay for itself over and over again, for not only does it save on the cost of commercial paper patterns, but its layouts make a most economical use of fabric.
The clothes described are elegant and graceful, in today's free-and-easy idiom, and are based on simple shapes - squares, rectangles, triangles and circles. Alternative layouts are given for different widths of material, and some of the styles are suitable for men and children as well as women. The stitches and sewing techniques required are of the simplest, and are summarised in a "reminder" chapter at the end of the book.

4to paperback 160 pages in VG++ condition. 440 gms £20.00

Clothes without Patterns

Pattern Cutting
Pattern Cutting
Margaret Melliar
Batsford Academic & Educational new edition 1981

A new edition, fully metricated, of a standard work
While fashion changes the principles of pattern cutting remain unaltered. Here Margaret Melliar shows how, by using a basic block, patterns can be adapted to any style without the complication of having to draft out each design separately. Block patterns in fact are much the same from season to season: modifications such as length of skirt, paddings for shoulders, etc, can be added according to prevailing fashion. The young teacher, as well as the student and home dressmaker, will value a book planned with progression from the simple to the complicated, where information is quickly obtainable. For the student in particular the practice it gives in cutting a variety of styles will be invaluable towards becoming an experienced design-cutter.


4to paperback 112 pages in VG++ condition. 360 gms £10.50

Blouses, Skirts and Tops
Belinda Musgrave
B T Batsford 1st 1985

The blouse has been an important element of a woman's wardrobe for well over a century and has undergone many exciting changes over that period. Here, a young fashion designer shows how easy it is to translate the latest designer look into an easy-to-make, well-fitting, professional garment for a fraction of the cost.
Beginning with the foundation `block' pattern and showing how to alter this to fit perfectly, the author demystifies the intricacies of styling and making the pattern pieces, using several basic blouses as examples. Once the finished design has been decided upon it can be transferred to the chosen material, and there is advice on cutting out, including the handling of difficult fabrics. The next chapter shows how to put the garment together, whether using a machine or hand-sewing, and suggests methods of decoration, such as applique, embroidery and lacework. The superb drawings will inspire the would-be dressmaker and the easy-to-follow, detailed instructions will embolden even the most timid novice.
Belinda Musgrave has been a professional pattern cutter and designer for many years, specialising in adapting haute couture designs for the high-street market. She is, therefore, able to teach the beginner many effective short cuts as well as offering the more expereinced dressmaker exciting design ideas.


4to. Fine in a VG++ wrapper. 495 gms £10.00
Blouses, Skirts and Tops

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