Grid Reference : 697 134, OS Sheet 109, 'Manchester', Scale 1:50,000
The complex of four quarries which make up the collection lies only 3 miles north of Bolton on the A675 Bolton - Preston road. From Bolton, follow this road until the Wilton Arms pub is reached on the left. A small public car park is available here for access to the main quarry (Wilton 1) which lies directly behind the pub and is reached by walking up the path to the rear of the car park. To reach the three remaining quarries, continue up the A675 past the pub for about 1/2 a mile to a sharp left turn, Scout Road, and follow this steeply to a small parking area on the right. Walking up the road from here, three metal gates are reached consecutively. The first gate provides access to Wilton 3, the next one to Wilton 2 and the final one to Wilton 4 ( Not worth a visit in my opinion ).
Collectively the three main quarries ( 1, 2 & 3 ) are the biggest rock playground in the area, and the number of high quality routes here is overwhelming. Indeed, there are many classic climbs, comparable to the best anywhere in the country. Every climber will find something to flex his muscles on, be it the easier angled walls of Wilton 3, the technically demanding test pieces of Wilton 2, or the longer more formidable routes of Wilton 1 (Main Quarry).
Please note access to Wilton 2 & 3 is shared with the 'Bolton Gun Club' & the 'Bolton Rifle & Pistol Club'. The 'Sad Gits' have preference over climbers on Wednesdays, Fridays & Sundays. Fortunately at the moment they seldom seem to make an appearance. However if you are asked to move on during any of the above days, please do so without creating a scene, and leave them to play Cowboys & Indians. The gun clubs do not have permission to operate in the lower quarry (Wilton 1).
I recommended you treat yourself to a copy of the guide entitled 'Rock Climbs, Lancashire and the North West' by Phil Kelly & Dave Cronshaw.
The Prow Area : The Prow is the obvious centrepiece of the quarry : a hugh 2 sided promontory of rock left by the quarry men for reasons only know to themselves. The outside face is around 60 feet high and tends to be green after a spell of wet weather, the inside face is around 45 feet high of clean rock. In sunny weather the inside face becomes a sun trap, providing you with that extra bit of neck.
Outside Face
1. Cameo, 60ft, E1 - Start 15 feet left of the right arete of the face, & climb over small ledges to a final ledge below a thin crack. Follow the crack past a tiny grove to easier ground, topping out by a iron stake driven in at the top of the route. Gear towards the top is rather sparse making this route a little bit necky! Quality. (Red)
2. Christeena, 45ft, VS - Gain the large ledge on the nose of the prow. Move up left to a jug and mantel onto this. Step left into a groove (Bags of Fun!) and finish up this to the top. Plenty of bomb proof placements. Easy to arrange a top belay. (Blue) (Also see pic below)
Inside Face
3. Dawn, 45 feet, HVS - 6 feet right of the arete is a wide crack; climb this to a break and niche. Go up and right into a small alcove, then make hard moves to the top. (Red)
4. Son of Two Mothers (SJW 1993), 45 feet, E1 - Climb the short groove 15 feet right of the arete to a ledge, then move left to the vertical crack in the wall and climb this to the top. (Blue)
5. Eliminate, 60 feet, VS - Climb the short groove 15 feet right of the arete to a ledge, then traverse right along the breaks until you gain the right edge of the short wall, climb this to the top. (Green)
6. Ann, 45 feet, E1 - On the right edge of the groove of 'Son of Two Mothers' there is a short arete, climb the peg crack on its right to the ledge above, then follow the steep corner using both cracks, or if you are feeling brave, just layback the right crack. (Red)
7. Cheat, 45 feet, E2 - Start 5 feet right of 'Ann' and climb a blind crack with a long stretch to reach the break of 'Eliminate'. Step right and take the line of man made designer holds up the wall above. (Blue)
Chimney Buttress Area : This is the steep imposing buttress to the left of, and slightly set back from the 'Prows' outside face. All the routes below are strenuous & sustained, but well worth a visit. Climbs are listed left to right.
8. Leucocyte Left Hand, 60ft, E2 - Climb directly up to the iron ring and move right to gain a ledge. Move up left into a niche from where a couple of difficult moves lead to easier ground and the top. (Red)
9. Leucocyte Right Hand, 60ft, VS - From the large ledge on the previous route, move up into the short corner on the right and climb it and the crack above exiting on the right. (Blue)
10. Central Route, 60ft, E1 - 15 feet right of the iron ring on 'Leucocyte Left Hand' is a large ledge at 14 feet. Gain this and climb the crack above to a Peg Runner. Move right and up to jugs, trend up and back left to the crack and finish up this. It is possible to go directly up from the PR. The best mid grade route on the buttress! (Red)
11. Max, 60ft, E3 - 8 feet right of the previous route, climb a thin crack to a shallow cave at mid height. Take a deep breath. Climb into the overhanging niche above and exit from this by a hard move. Follow the continuation crack to the top, & breathe again. (Green)
12. Wambat Chimney, 65ft, E2 - Due to the lack of difficult chimney's in the Lancashire Area many local climbers find this route a bit of an epic. 7 feet right of the previous route, follow a crack for 10 feet to some welcome placements. Go up and leftwards to a rest below a tantalising flared chimney. Battle up this to easy ledges on the right. (Blue)
Wilton Wall Area : This is the steep imposing buttress behind the firing range. All the routes below are strenuous & sustained, & provide some of the best climbing in Wilton Quarries.
1. Falling Crack, 45 feet, E2 - The prominent crack in the centre of the wall is followed to a hard move into a niche where the crack narrows, finish more easily over the overhang. (Red)
2. Wilton Wall, 45 feet, E3 - Excellent! Climb falling crack for 10 feet then traverse right on a detached block to a crack. Climb the crack, with a difficult move to stand on a flat hold. Enter the upper groove by a further hard move and gain the large ledge. Finish easily. (Blue)
3. Iron Orchid, 50 feet, E4 - Climb the right arete of the wall to a peg runner at 25 feet, move up then traverse right to another peg runner in an overhanging scoop. Climb the blunt right arete of the scoop to gain the large ledge. Alternatively just finish up the arete (E2). (Blue)
4. The Swine, 45 feet, E3 - Start 10 feet left of 'Iron Orchid' and climb diagonally rightwards to gain good holds just left of the arete at 20 feet. Continue to a peg runner and finish straight up. (Red)
Central Crack, 35 feet, HVS - The striking, perfect crack opposite the quarry entrance. A must! (No Pic Yet!)
Rappel Wall Area : This is the easy angled face behind the firing range, on the right hand side as you enter the quarry. The following climbs are listed right to left.
1. Eeny, 20 feet, HD - Start just left of the deep right hand corner of the wall. The short jamming crack starting halfway up the wall is reached by climbing the wall below. Suitable for beginners. (Red)
2. Meeny, 25 feet, VD - The wide crack on the left is reached by a subsidiary crack, then climbed on jams, or as a layback. Suitable for beginners. (Blue)
3. Miney, 30 feet, HVD - The thin, ragged crack on the left is gained by the wall on the left, and is climbed using holds on the wall. Suitable for beginners. (Red)
4. Mo, 35 feet, HS - To the left of 'Miney' is an orange patch with a crack on either side. Climb the wall below, then use both cracks until it is possible to finish, using the right one. Suitable for beginners. (Blue)
5. The Gay Dwarves and Mr Plod go to the Tupperware Party, 35 feet, E2 - Climb the wall between 'Mo' & 'Crooked Crack' direct. Short on reliable gear! (Red)
6. Crooked Crack, 40 feet, VS - Start in the deep left hand corner of the wall, gain the low right hand ledge and from this climb the crack which splits the overhang above and continue to the top. (Blue)
7. Canopy, 45 feet, HVS - Start in the deep left hand corner of the wall (as for Crooked Crack). Climb diagonally left on to the ajoining face to the bottom of a thin peg scarred crack; follow this passing a small overlap. (Located in a corner not shown on picture)
8. Shivers Arete, 45 feet, E1 - Climb 'Canopy' for a few feet but continue left to the arete (spike runner), press on up the arete to a peg runner (bomb proof) and pass this by a hard move (crux), to gain the top. (Red)